The ancient hillock of Phanigiri, located in the Suryapet district of Telangana, is rapidly gaining recognition as a site of profound historical and cultural significance. This 2,100-year-old Buddhist heritage site, which once lay hidden beneath wild vegetation, is now on the cusp of emerging as a significant Buddhist site in South Asia, with aspirations for UNESCO World Heritage status.
Phanigiri, whose name is derived from the Sanskrit words “Phana” (serpent’s hood) and “Giri” (hill), is strategically located 140 kilometres from Hyderabad, the capital of Telangana. The site features a Mahastupa, viharas (monastic residences), apsidal chaitya-grihas (prayer halls), stone-pillared congregation halls, and inscriptions that provide a window into the region’s rich Buddhist past. These elements are crucial in reconstructing the area’s cultural history, which was once part of the undivided Andhra Pradesh.
Recent excavations at Phanigiri have revealed a treasure trove of artefacts, including 3,750 lead coins dating back to the Ikshvaku period (300–400 CE). Among the other significant finds is a Roman gold coin from the era of Emperor Nerva Caesar Augustus (96–98 CE), underscoring the site’s historical importance and its connections with ancient trade routes.
Buddhism’s roots in this region trace back to the life of the Buddha in the fifth century BCE. According to Buddhist scripture, the “Sutta Nipata,” a sage named Bavari, possibly from Telangana, sent his disciples to meet the Buddha in Shravasti (present-day Uttar Pradesh). This encounter played a pivotal role in the spread of Buddhism to this part of India. The local ruler of Assakajanapata, in what is now southern Telangana, is also believed to have converted to Buddhism, further establishing the religion in the region.
Phanigiri’s cultural and religious significance is also tied to its connections with other prominent Buddhist sites, such as Amaravati and Nagarjunakonda in neighbouring Andhra Pradesh. These sites and Phanigiri served as important centres of Buddhist learning and worship from the 1st century BCE to the 4th century CE.
One of the most notable artefacts from Phanigiri is a vertical panel sculpture carved in green limestone, often referred to as the “jewel of Phanigiri.” The sculpture is renowned for its intricate carving, composition, and narrative, making it a masterpiece of Buddhist art. This panel, along with four others, was loaned to New York’s Metropolitan Museum and the National Museum in South Korea and was recently returned to India.
Despite its historical value, Phanigiri faced neglect and vandalism over the decades. Treasure hunters damaged parts of the site in search of gold, and in 2003, a significant Buddhist panel depicting critical stages in the Buddha’s life was stolen. Fortunately, the panel was later recovered by the police, highlighting the ongoing challenges of preserving such a site.
Excavations at Phanigiri began in earnest in 2001, following initial explorations by the Nizam’s Department of Archaeology between 1941 and 1944. The latest excavation phase concluded recently, marking the eighth season of work at the site. Efforts are shifting from excavation to conservation, with plans to enhance the site’s accessibility and visitor experience.
Bharati Hollikeri, the director of the Department of Archaeology, has expressed optimism about Phanigiri’s potential to achieve UNESCO World Heritage status. However, she acknowledges that the process is lengthy and requires the site to first be included in India’s tentative list of World Heritage Sites, which currently features 57 entries.
“We are planning to build a bigger and modern museum near the site to house all the artifacts from Phanigiri,” Hollikeri said. “The excavation is more or less over, and our focus is on conserving the site. We need to build some amenities, too, for the people visiting.”
Heritage activist Sreeramoju Haragopal emphasised the need for scientific preservation of the artefacts and publishing a comprehensive book detailing the site’s findings. He also called for the conservation and protection of the chaitya-grihas and viharas, which are integral to the site’s religious and historical significance.
Phanigiri has attracted attention from scholars, students, and tourists worldwide, including Japan, China, Thailand, Sri Lanka, and Nepal. The increasing number of visitors is a testament to the growing recognition of the site’s importance.
Security guard Phanigiri Veeraiah, who has been protecting the site for 22 years, noted that many visitors return multiple times, drawn by the unique Buddha Jataka panels not found anywhere else in the country.
As Phanigiri’s historical and cultural value continues to be recognised, efforts to conserve and promote the site are gaining momentum. With its potential to become a prominent heritage site in India, Phanigiri could soon join the ranks of the world’s most treasured cultural landmarks, shedding light on the spread of Buddhism and its enduring legacy in South Asia.
