The Navratri festival’s roots trace back to the legend of the formidable battle against the powerful demon Mahishasura, who was immune to the power of gods and men. On the tenth day, Durga Ma vanquished Mahishasura, marking Vijayadashami/Dusshera/Dasara.
In Nepal, a similar festival dedicated to the Goddess is called Dashain and spans 15 days, culminating in Vijaya or Bijaya Dashami on the tenth day.
In Tamil Nadu, Navaratri is marked by the exquisite display of Kolu dolls and figurines in Brahmin and select non-Brahmin households. These dolls are arranged in odd-numbered steps, resembling a staircase, often with accompanying light and sound decorations.
Feasting on Sundals and Welcoming Guests
During the ten days of Navaratri, ‘Sundals’, a delectable dish made from boiled dal or pulses like Channa dal, peanuts, groundnuts, marinated with mustard, coconut, oil, curry leaves, and ginger paste, are prepared and offered to guests, primarily women and young girls. It is customary to dress elegantly, invite friends, family, colleagues, and neighbours, and gift them bags containing coconuts, fruits, sweet boxes, combs, mirrors, turmeric, betel nuts with leaves, blouse pieces, books, or personalised gifts.
On Saraswathi Pooja, the ninth day, books, laptops, and pens are placed for worship. Vehicles are adorned with garlands, kumkum, and chandan. Temples also engage in daily deity decorations and rituals throughout the festival.
Unique Vijayadasami Celebrations in Kulasai
Kulasai, near Thoothukudi and Tiruchendur, is home to the iconic Sri Mutharamman Temple, where Vijayadasami or Dussehra celebrations take on a unique form. Unlike other places where Goddess Durga is celebrated in various incarnations, devotees in Kulasai themselves transform into deities, demons, and mythological figures to offer prayers to Goddess Mutharamman.
Devotees who opt to dress as Goddess Kali undergo a grueling 48-day penance, including eating only one meal a day, living ascetically outside their homes, and adhering to strict norms. Some fast for 41 days. In the final 10 days, they don elaborate costumes, portraying gods, goddesses, demons, or mythological characters, including Yema, Ma Kaali, and evil spirits. They venture into surrounding villages, captivating onlookers with various acts and performances.
An Act of Devotion
The local belief in Kulasai is that these disguised devotees represent Goddess Mutharamman herself, who has come in disguise to collect alms. They dance and move to rhythmic music, all while upholding profound devotion. The festival’s culmination features the portrayal of Mahisasura Mardini, symbolising the triumph over the demon Mahishasura, riding a lion, and staying at the shores of Kulasekarapattinam at midnight. This is followed by exuberant dancing and fireworks.
The festival wraps up with devotees taking a holy dip in the sea and participating in elaborate rituals and poojas. Anointing with milk and other sacred materials marks the end of the sequence of celebrations. Those who had donned various disguises returned to their normal lives, carrying cherished memories and the hope of returning for the next year’s festival.
Sanganoor’s Enchanting Transformation
The Mutharamman Temple in Sanganoor, Coimbatore, is another venue for celebrating this vibrant festival. Devotees gather here in large numbers to kick off the Dasara festivities. They paint their faces and bodies and adorn themselves in colourful costumes with great attention to detail.
Devotees of all ages, from children to seniors, irrespective of their gender, caste, or creed, enthusiastically dress up as Lord Shiva, Goddess Kali, and even as gypsies and monkeys, displaying unwavering devotion, even in the scorching heat.
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