Besakhi Temple: Tracing the evolution of Balinese Hinduism

Published by
Dr Ujwala Chakradeo

Besakih Temple complex is on the slopes of Mount Agung in Eastern Bali, Indonesia. The place was already a ‘Teerth Kshetra’. It was certainly used as a Hindu place of worship from 1284 when the first Javanese conquerors settled in Bali. This is the largest and one of the most important temples of Bali.

The entrance to this complex is called ‘Candi Bentar’ which means spit gateway. A steep staircase leading to the entrance gates gives the feeling of climbing the steps to heaven. The architecture and design of this gateway has become a symbol of the temple architecture of Bali. There are several courtyards, staircases, and brick gateways within the complex, making it an interesting  piece of landscape.

There are 23 different temples within the complex. These temples are different yet related to each other to be part of the complex. The most important amongst them is Pura Penataran Agung called Meru Structure. The temple is built on six levels terraced on the slope. The centre of the structure is the ritual focus of the entire complex. It is called the Lotus Throne or the ‘Padmasana’.

Most of the Balinese practice a form of Hinduism that is entwined with Buddhist and animistic beliefs. Although the main Hindu Gods are worshipped, equal attention is paid to local, agricultural and ancestral deities. However, the deep rooted faith remains unchanged. Animistic belief is based on the trust that natural objects, natural phenomena and the universe itself have souls.

Naga Basukian, a dragon inhabiting the mountains of Agung, is the main deity of the complex. This is very much in tune with the Balinese animistic beliefs. The stories of a mighty dragon, which once lived in the Agung volcano crater and watched over a tremendous treasure, are well-known in every village of Bali. A series of eruptions of Mount Agung in 1963 killed approximately 1,700 people. There was a threat to Pura Besakih. However, the lava stopped miraculously only a few meters away from the complex, not damaging it. Once again the signal was sent by God about His power. Same has been demonstrated on several occasions; in 2013 in Uttar Kashi and the 2005 tsunami in Sri Lanka and on many other instances. Tracing the evolution of Balinese Hinduism would be the best sample of exploring the journey of how original principles shape up with the changes in the environment and context.

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